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How to accustom a cat to a new home is of interest to those owners who are getting an adult animal or moving with their pet. You can't just rehome a cat and expect it to cope with the change without stress. Like people, not only adult cats, but even kittens, do not immediately get used to a new place of life; and due to the fact that they cannot understand what caused the resettlement, adaptation is much more difficult. Therefore, we need to help the pet and accustom him to change. Mistakes by the owner at the stage of getting used to a new home can cause the animal to fall into long-term depression, which is dangerous for its physical health. The experience gained by lovers of four-legged pets will help accustom the cat to a new home.
Traveling to a new home with minimal stress
To ensure that the trip brings as little stress as possible to the kitten, it is advisable to familiarize it with the carrier in advance. Ask the breeder to supply your carrier a few days before you plan to pick up your baby. Let the kitten explore the carrier and get used to it.
Choose the shortest route to your home so that the journey does not take much time. Do not let the kitten out of the carrier; he should not walk around the car while it is moving. Many carriers have a special window so you can stick your hand through. Use this opportunity to calm your baby.
At first, limit the space to one room.
For the first few days, keep your baby in one of the rooms. It should contain bowls and a tray. If the tray is far away, the kitten may not reach it or may even forget where the toilet is. There should also be toys and a scratching post in the room.
Place the carrier in the room and let the kitten decide when to go out. Let him get used to the new smells. Some kittens are more curious than others and will come out of hiding faster. Don't rush your pet. When the kitten comes out and gets used to it a little, show him where the tray is and where the bowls are.
Avoid noise and guests
Try to ensure that no guests come to you in the first days and that the house is not too noisy. The kitten is getting used to its new home; additional smells and sounds can cause stress. Because of this, the adaptation process will be delayed. If there are children in the house, try to explain that you need to be quieter to allow the pet to get used to the new home.
If the kitten hides at first, this is normal. Give him time to get comfortable
Things you can prepare before moving
Feed
If you adopt an animal from a nursery, be sure to ask the breeder about the brand of food so that you can feed the cat the usual food for the first time.
In addition to the brand of food, find out the meal times and portion sizes.
Tray and filler
In addition to the brand of food, it is important to find out the type of filler. This is important because the pet is accustomed to a certain type and may not accept a new one due to a different consistency or smell.
On a note!
Even with new litter, the cat may not go into the litter box. The reason may be either in the tray itself (wrong depth, shape, location) or in the stress of moving. Be patient and understanding.
Bed\house
For the first time, the cat must have a corner where she can retire and feel safe.
To make her as comfortable as possible, ask her previous place of residence for a handkerchief or cloth, rug/bedding. Placing him in a house or bed in a new place will help your pet reduce stress and feel comfortable.
scratching post
You won't need it if you're taking a kitten. But for adults it is mandatory if you don’t want problems with wallpaper and furniture.
Toys
It’s good when they are different and in large quantities.
In a special store or from a breeder, ask what safe and educational toys you can buy for your breed.
Let the kitten explore space
When the kitten gets comfortable in the room and gets used to you, you can begin to introduce it to the rest of the space. Start with another room and let your pet explore it. When he gets used to the new room, the space can be expanded: let the kitten into the kitchen or bathroom.
How quickly a kitten gets used to each new room depends on its temperament. Some kittens adapt quite quickly, others will take longer. If your kitten is a timid one, don't rush him. Use treats to reward your pet.
Problems in behavior and their correction
Feline fears and antisocial behavior in an outdoor cat can be caused by many different factors.
Even healthy cats and brave cats can become fearful and confused when they are in a new environment or encounter new animals to share their space with.
When cats feel unwell, they instinctively try to find a secluded area and stay away from people and other animals.
Your indoor cat may begin to urinate outside the litter box to “mark” its territory when the newcomer arrives.
Read more about this: How to stop a cat from marking its territory?
If this is the case, then separate litter boxes must be provided for each cat. It may seem a little excessive, but if it makes the cats happy, it's worth it.
If your pet hasn't been to the vet recently or is exhibiting unusually antisocial behavior, it's a good idea to make sure there are no health issues that need to be addressed.
You'll know your socialization efforts have been successful if your cats meet each other without hissing or growling. Some cats may begin to groom each other like old friends, but be realistic in your expectations.
If there is already a cat in the house
If you already have a cat, then you need to introduce the new tenant to the older friend gradually. Here's the best way to do it.
Let the cats recognize each other's scent
When you bring the kitten home, take something with its scent and put it where the older cat lives. And in the kitten’s room, put something that smells like an older cat. This is how animals recognize each other's smell.
Continue introducing cats in absentia
If the cats do not show signs of aggression by sniffing each other's things, continue to introduce them through smells. Lock the older cat in the room and let the kitten explore new territory. He will not only get used to the new home, but also to the smell of his older comrade. After this, return the kitten to its room and release the older cat. He will feel the smell of the baby and will gradually get used to it.
Arrange a meeting for the cats
When both pets get used to each other's smell, arrange a meeting for them. Place the kitten in the carrier and close it. Place the carrier outside the room where the kitten lives. Let the pets look at each other and sniff each other through the door of the carrier.
If the animals show aggression, continue to familiarize them with each other's scent for a few more days. After that, try again to arrange a safe meeting for them.
Let the cats get to know each other
If the animals are not aggressive, leave the door to the kitten's room ajar. This will give the baby the opportunity to go out and explore the territory, and the older cat the opportunity to visit the kitten. Keep an eye on how pets get to know each other. Be prepared to break them up if they get into a fight.
Observe the pets' relationships. Sometimes cats may hiss at each other; this is normal behavior. Cats respect a hierarchy, and it may take time for it to become established between your pets.
It can take a lot of effort for pets to become friends. Be patient and everything will work out.
Be patient and your pets will soon become friends
It may take time to accustom a kitten to a new home. It all depends on your pet. The main thing is to let the kitten know that he is safe and that he is loved, then he will feel comfortable faster.
WHAT A KITTEN NEEDS TO BUY: NECESSARY PURCHASES
A kitten has appeared in the house and now you need to take care of important purchases for its maintenance.
WHAT A KITTEN NEEDS: LIST OF SHOPPINGS A KITTEN NEEDS:
- Dry food
- Canned food, preserves, pouches
- Vitamins
- Bowls (ceramic or metal, do not buy plastic)
- Filler (clumping, fine, preferably Pi-Pi-Bent, Noriko, Benek, etc.)
- Tray
- Spatula (for collecting lumps of filler from the tray)
- Toys (feathers, mice, tennis balls, etc.)
- scratching post
- Claw clippers
- Shampoo (need a little later)
WHAT DOES A KITTEN NEED: SHOPPING LIST OF NOT MANDATORY BUT NECESSARY:
- Carrying (for trips to the veterinarian, to the country house, etc.)
- Catnip spray - for spraying the scratching post (I recommend purchasing it)
- Sticky roller (for removing hair from clothes and furniture)
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SELECTION
Let's figure out what's best and how not to get confused in the wide variety of pet stores.
BOWLS
Bowls should be purchased either ceramic or metal. Never use plastic dishes for feeding - cracks form in them, food gets into them and a large number of microorganisms accumulate there. Cats can become seriously ill.
For water, it is best to choose transparent glass bowls. It is believed that this way cats see water better and drink more of it.
TRAY FOR KITTEN
It is better to take a tray that is strong, large, with sides or a house. The plastic must be of high quality so that the smell is not absorbed.
TRAY FILLER
We recommend choosing clumping litter for the first time. It is the most versatile. Over time, you can switch to another (for example, silica gel).
VITAMINS FOR KITTEN
This is not necessary, but it is advisable to prescribe it periodically in courses.
CARRYING (BOXING) FOR A KITTEN
The carrier is needed to take the kitten to vaccinations, to the dacha, etc. in the future). Also, of course, to bring the kitten to a new home.
It is better to take a plastic carrier, strong, with a tightly closing door. And spacious, large, because... the kitten will grow up.
SHAMPOO
Shampoo can be anything. The pet store will give you better advice. The main rule is to take into account the age of the kitten.
CAT MINT
It is better to find exactly the company Trixie (Trixie). She's the best. In a spray.
One to three sprays onto the scratching post complex. This will serve as a signal for the kitten where exactly it can sharpen its claws.
You can also sprinkle catnip on your bed and toys (feathers, balls, etc.)
BRUSH/COMB FOR KITTEN
The brush/comb can be anything, the main thing is that it must have protective circles at the ends, like a “massage brush”. It may have combined hard bristles (like a shoe brush).
Important ! The comb should have no metal ends. Britons have soft fur and skin that can be easily damaged.
KITTEN IN THE HOUSE FIRST DAYS: TOILET ISSUE
The first thing to do is to limit the kitten's territory. For a child, moving is a lot of stress and he may get confused. We choose a room so that the kitten can be seen for the maximum amount of time, preferably with fewer cracks and recesses where it can “clog”, close the doors and wait for several days (!) until we are finally convinced that the kitten has learned where its toilet is located. We are gradually expanding the territory until the entire apartment is freely accessible.
We put the tray in a “passage” place and put the kitten there for familiarization. By the time they move, the kittens are already accustomed to the litter box, so they understand perfectly well what it is and why. For the first few days, you can carry the kitten in a litter tray and periodically paddle it with its front paws (instincts kick in, and it immediately understands what this is for).
Babies, as already mentioned, experience stress when moving, so the pet may not go to the toilet for up to 2-3 days. Don't worry, everything will fall into place within a week. After the kitten constantly goes to the tray and only to the tray, you can quietly, little by little, move the toilet to a permanent place where it will stand.
Please remember: you should not place the tray next to food.
You can read more about toilet training a kitten here.
SMALL KITTEN IN THE HOUSE: FOOD
The kitten's diet includes the following diet:
| RECOMMENDED DIET | COMMENTS |
| Dry food / freely available | Only premium/super premium class. Be sure to buy food according to the age of the kitten! It is better to choose one manufacturer and feed only his food (you can have different flavors within the same brand). |
| Fresh water / freely available | From under the filter, bottled or boiled. Change the water at least once a day |
| Raw beef (can be given daily, 1-2 times a week) | Finely chopped or twisted through a meat grinder (be sure to freeze for at least 48 hours, you can first pour boiling water over it). For convenience, you can freeze it in portions at once. |
| Meat/poultry (can be given 1-2 times a week) | Turkey, lamb, rabbit, chicken (be sure to freeze for at least 48 hours) |
| Canned food/preserves/pouches (can be given 1-2 times a week) | Especially for kittens (up to the age of 12 months), preferably from the same manufacturer as the food. Only premium/super premium class |
| Boiled chicken (can be given 1-2 times a week) | maybe with broth |
| By-products (can be given once a week) | heart, chicken gizzards, tripe, lung |
| Liver (can be given once a week) | beef or chicken |
| Boiled sea fish no more than once a week) | fillet only, cook for 5-10 minutes, optional with broth. Be sure to remove all bones! |
| Grass/maltpaste (can be offered periodically in courses, especially in the spring-summer season, during the molting period) | You can buy grass already sprouted at a pet store (wash it first) or grow it yourself. The grass can also be replaced with a special malt paste for digestion (sold at any pet store) |
| Vitamins (according to instructions). Can be given 2 times a year in courses (for example, in autumn and spring). | Today, Beaphar and BREWERS are excellent vitamins. Required according to age and weight! |
| NOT MANDATORY DIET | COMMENTS |
| Yolk (can be given 1-2 times a week) | boiled, can be mixed with kefir, cottage cheese, sour cream, etc. |
| Fermented milk products (can be given 1-2 times a week) | sour cream, kefir, cottage cheese, natural yogurt, yogurt, fermented baked milk (all without additives) |
| Vegetables/fruits/berries (can be given 1-2 times a month) | Not necessary. But if you are interested in “indulging”, you can offer zucchini, pumpkin, carrots, watermelon, blueberries, etc. |
| Cereals (rice, oatmeal, buckwheat) | Porridge is not very healthy for cats. They should be kept to a minimum in the diet or even eliminated altogether. |
| Cheese (can be given no more than once a week) | not fat |
| Shrimp, other seafood (no more than once a week) | Boiled (without bones, shells, etc.) |
Important!
If a kitten doesn’t eat or doesn’t like something, he has the right to it. Just like people - each with their own preferences. It's OK. Everyone has their own preferences. In essence, a good dry food contains everything necessary for health and development. However, we highly recommend giving beef, beef heart, and boiled chicken at least occasionally.
